Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Frame the windows to your soul..

I was inspired to put out this blog posting after a beautiful model inquired about brow shaping. I can't tell you how many times I see women with "bad brows", and how it takes away from their beauty.

Let's first talk about what a bad brow is, and then we will discuss how to get the perfect brow! Note: All photos were captured from online sources.

Bad Eyebrows
Overly tweezed brows, then re-drawn on poorly.

Twin Bad Eyebrows
No, no, no!

Same thing here..

Love Madge, but her brows even in in the 80's were a no-no. Overly grown, un-kept, and penciled way too dark!

So how do you get the perfect brow shape?
Remember, everyone's (males too)brows should begin at the point shown above, and the arch should begin right above your pupil. The end of the brow should be a smidge thinner, and end at the outer corner of your eye.

People try to do all kinds of things with their brows, like forcing a high arch to lift the face. No, no! Your brows frame your features. If you over-tweeze, and show too much brow bone, all of your features will look out of proportion. Additionally, don't listen to anyone who says there's a trendy shape right now. ALWAYS follow your own brow bone, and shape. A perfect eyebrow can add a lot of impact to your eyes. They frame the shape of the eyes, and so can either make you look old, and harsh, or soft, and young.

I highly recommend growing your eyebrows out completely, and letting a professional shape them. After that point, you can simply maintain. If you should decide to do it on your own, here are the steps you will want to follow:

Purchase some high quality brow stencils. I prefer to use the celebrity artist Anastasia's: www.anastasia.net

These amazing stencils are fool-proof, and will allow you to get the perfect shape. If you're tweezing on freshly grown brows, they are perfect, or if you are filling in your brows (your own brows won't grow anymore) they are for you.

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.
2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin at your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye.
3. Prep: Soaking a cotton ball in astringent and wipe the brow area.
4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.
5. Hold your tweezers at a 45 degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape, not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.
6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil ; use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition, and is great for a more natural look. Using the brow brush, sweep powder up and outward over brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.
Check out the below examples of before/afters. This isn't my work, but rather examples I found online.

Brows that are barely there, have been filled in, and look gorgeous. Opt for soft natural colors.

A great fill in. Her brows are measuring nicely.

Another nice example..

Not only are her brows shaped, but they were lightened too which softens her look. Lightening of the brows should always be done by a pro. You can blind yourself with the dye!

Uh-oh! Her brows were overly tweezed. A nice fill in took care of that.

She is covering her gray hairs. A great dye job, and soft brow powder does the trick :)

Source of before/after photos: http://www.eyebrowz.com/creating.htm

So to sum it up, here are the tools you will need:

A sharp, precise tweezer.
A great pair of brow scissors, and brow comb.
A great brow powder.. Visit Sephora to find the best on the market. The above shown is by Anastasia. You will also need an angled make-up brush. Don't spend an arm, and a leg please. Your local art supply store has just what you need.

I also looooooove Brow Duality. It is a nice high lighter for underneath the brow. Definitely a must have.

Lastly, you may use the brow stencils, and you're on your way! Any questions? You know what to do! I'm only an e-mail away!